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Tuesday 31 March 2020

SWCP Day 4: Old Haunts

Other SWCP posts:

Day 2: Porlock to Lynton
Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin
Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop
Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton
Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!
Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth

Day 4
Combe Martin to Mortehoe
Approx 10.5 miles, 950m ascent
29,910 steps

I awoke to another grey morning, and was extremely tempted to just stay put and have a rest day in Combe Martin. I was keen though to get to Mortehoe, to a campsite I knew and was looking forward to. I decided to grit my teeth through the sore shoulders and achy feet, and try and get through the day, after all, there was nothing else for me to do!

There was nowhere for a hot breakfast so I ate some of my cereal bar supplies and got some snacks from the village shop, including a Mars bar, can’t remember the last time I had one of those. with much groaning and creaking I got moving on the path. The morning is a bit of a blur, there were several sections along the sides of roads, but also some good views back along the coast to the Hangman hills. The lush green cliffs reminded me of scenes from Jurassic Park. I did meet some lovely friendly people which helped lift my mood, along with a puppy which seemed quite scared of my giant backpack!

View back to Little Hangman

I stopped at a viewing point with great views back to the bay at Watermouth with many boats moored, then looking on towards Sampson’s bay and Rillage point. There were lots of foxgloves and other wildflowers to enjoy, and I sat and happily ate my Mars bar.

Watermouth bay, Hangman hills in the background
Looking onwards

I was in sight of Ilfracombe in good time and feeling ready for lunch, and then the path decided to play a cruel trick, and climbed and climbed, winding up a big hill just on the outskirts. With my stomach rumbling, there was definitely a lot of swearing as I slogged upward. I finally made it to the top of Beacon hill, and was at least rewarded with a pleasing view down over Ilfracombe, and Lundy Island starting to appear on the horizon. I finally found a passable cafe and had an extremely leisurely and extravagant lunch of hot chicken and bacon baguette, followed by massive chocolate and strawberry crepe with excessive amounts of whipped cream, all washed down with about 3 pints of orange squash, whilst enjoying the sunshine that finally made an appearance.

Ilfracombe, with Lundy Island just visible

Finally getting moving, and having drunk far too much squash, I then had to make use of every public toilet in Ilfracombe. I found the path out of town, which wound back up the cliff past big fancy houses. The sun stayed with me so I found a bush for another toilet stop, and changed into shorts for the first time on the walk. I enjoyed the next couple of miles across the open and gently undulating landscape with inquisitive cows for company. Unfortunately the easy mood and kind walking didn’t last long, as the path dropped rapidly down into the village of Lee, with a formidable climb on the other side. I took a moment to enjoy the bay at Lee; when I was a kid we holidayed a couple of times in a big holiday cottage on the hill, and I had fond memories of the big house and huge garden, and also the pub which sadly now appeared to be closed.

On route to Mortehoe
Annoying (if pretty!) valleys

The final couple of miles to Mortehoe were once again a real slog, with a couple of steep valleys dropping down to the sea and straight back up again. The coastline is stunning though, and I was still enjoying the views and being out in the wild, in between feeling rubbish and knackered! The campsite at North Morte Farm finally came in to view, and after walking all the way through the site to find the reception, I finally pitched the tent in a spot with a view, and for dinner ate a pasty I had bought in Ilfracombe. I was feeling tired and quite emotional, with a massive blister on one foot, very much looking forward to a rest day tomorrow, but pleased to have made it this far. I enjoyed a good sunset and dropped off to the sounds of families enjoying the last weekend of the half-term.

Sunset from North Morte Farm campsite


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Saturday 28 March 2020

SWCP Day 3: Ups and Downs

Other SWCP posts:

Day 2: Porlock to Lynton
Day 4: Combe Martin to Mortehoe
Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop
Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton
Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!
Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth


Day 3:

Lynton to Combe Martin

Approx 14 miles, 1,148m ascent

32,435 steps


I woke up feeling horribly achy and tired. My shoulders in particular were extremely sore, and I was rather grumpy, questioning my life choices. Thankfully there was a cafe on the campsite that did breakfast, and after a plateful of bacon and eggs I was feeling a little revived. I got back to the path, and the gentle start through the spectacular Valley of the Rocks helped to improve my mood a little. Watching the goats climbing all over the craggy rocks certainly helped me lift a smile.

Leaving Lynton 
Into the Valley of the Rocks
Valley of the Rocks
Happy goats

Leaving the goats and dog walkers behind, the day was really feeling like a slog. It didn’t help that quite a bit of the walking was on roads, which is never very enjoyable as it is difficult to properly zone out when having to keep an eye out for cars. The views however were still spectacular, and I was at least making progress; looking back up the coast at how far I had just come did make me feel like I might be able to get through the day. 

Looking back up the valley

The sun started to break through the clouds as the path dropped down into the picturesque Heddon Mouth. The wooded valley was filled with birdsong and butterflies and a lovely stream flowed along the base of the hills. There were lots of children playing and enjoying the pools and bridges, all very Enid Blyton. I followed the stream up the valley a short way to find the Hunter’s Inn. There has been a pub at the historic location since the 1800s, and the pretty Arts and Crafts style half-timbered building now on the site was constructed in 1906. Along with the surrounding valley, the pub is now owned and managed by the National Trust.

I found a sunny corner in the peaceful garden and spread myself and my solar panel out across a table, and settled down with a couple of pints of squash and an excellent fish finger sandwich. I found myself very unmotivated to move, so sat a while enjoying the sunshine and reading my book, entertained by a peacock that was attempting to invade the bedrooms above through the open balcony windows. I would happily have stayed put for the rest of the day, but the rooms at the Inn were £100 a night, so unfortunately way out of my budget.

The lovely Heddon Mouth valley
Mouth of the valley, you can just see the path dropping down on the top right!

Finally mustering the enthusiasm to move, I tackled the steep hill back out of the valley. Surprisingly the big climb actually made me feel a lot better, and for the first time that day I was feeling good. The path continued to climb across open heathland to top of the Great Hangman hill, the highest point on the entire coast path, at 318m. The views were amazing, looking back up the coast, and down to Combe Martin. Unfortunately it still looked quite a long way off! I rang ahead to the campsite and let them know I wouldn’t be there until after 8pm, luckily they said as long as I was there before dark there was no problem. 

Up up up!

I followed the path as it dropped down towards the Little Hangman hill, on the outer edge of the Exmoor National Park, and finally came into Combe Martin at about 7pm. Getting my priorities in order I found the nearest chip shop and ordered a big portion of cheesy chips. just outside the shop I bumped into the hiking couple from the day before and we exchanged numbers and tales from the day. I sat on the seafront overlooking the sheltered cove and stuffed my face with chips, then found my way to Newberry valley campsite just a little way up the road. 

Great Hangman
35 miles done!
Combe Martin cove

The campsite manager kindly met me in a golf buggy and took me to my pitch, absolute luxury! The bathroom facilities were also the best I’ve ever seen, and I had a very long hot shower before making my way back to the tent. Again I was surprised to spot the tent of the fast hiker I’d been trailing since Porlock, but that was the last I would see of him. The day had been pretty brutal and I hadn’t been sure in the morning that I would be able to make it all the way to Combe Martin, but I was pretty pleased that I had persevered and made it through. My shoulders and feet were feeling sore, and everything ached, but with 3 days and 35 miles done it was starting to feel like I would be able to keep going.

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Thursday 26 March 2020

SWCP Day 2: Into Middle Earth

Other SWCP posts:

Introduction
Day 1: Minehead to Porlock
Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin
Day 4: Combe Martin to Mortehoe
Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop
Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton
Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!
Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth
Day 43: Kingsand to Plymouth


Day 2

Porlock village to Lynton

Approx 13 miles, 962m ascent

29,085 steps


I woke to a grey and drizzly morning, before the rest of the campsite was stirring. I slept okay, just a little chilly so climbed inside my bivvi bag part way through the night for an extra layer of warmth. I took surprisingly well to sleeping soundly in the tent; despite only a thin layer of fabric between me and the outside world I didn’t have any fears of axe murderers or wild savage beasts disturbing my sleep. Or perhaps I was just far too tired to care.

It took me a while to get going, I made a coffee using the communal kettle, and sat and had a natter with the other hiker that had arrived whilst I was having dinner the previous evening. Recently retired, he was hoping to complete as much of the path as possible in 6 weeks. He was planning on doing higher mileage than me so I didn’t think I’d see him again. I packed up my tent in a lull in the drizzle, then presented myself at the village butcher as it opened, to stock up on a scotch egg for breakfast, and a veg pasty for lunch, as it didn’t look like there was going to be anywhere for refreshments on route. Unsurprisingly given its practical origins, the pasty is perfect hiking food; sturdy and portable, packed with calories, and a somewhat balanced meal. I intended to eat plenty in the coming weeks!

Finally getting going, I headed back down the lane to the path, which warmed me up gently across a peculiar marshy landscape littered with bleached tree skeletons and abandoned empty farm buildings. The atmospheric wild grey sky and absence of any people made for an eery walk. The section to Porlock weir was across a shingle beach, which quickly became my least favourite walking surface. The single tree apparently growing happily out of the stones, along with the dead marshes, was making me feel like I was descending into Middle Earth. 


Skeleton trees
Looking across to Porlock Weir
Beach tree

A brief interlude through the peaceful village at Porlock weir, then back into the wild via a chocolate box toll house that was definitely straight out of the Shire. A climb up the lushly wooded hillside and I stopped to breakfast, out of the fine rain in a hollow below a tree. The next few miles traced in and out of heavily wooded valleys, mostly keeping a level elevation, but with some annoying little ups and downs, and with only brief glimpses out to the sea far below. The walking was pleasant with the branches above holding off the rain. The Middle Earth theme continued, with overgrown and ruined stone tunnels and bridges hidden in the foliage. These are seemingly remains of an old carriage drive around the grounds of a long-gone country estate, playthings of the rich in the 1800s.

The Shire?
Tunnels through the trees

The path continued through the woods, in places so verdant and green it could only be called a temperate rainforest. Hidden amongst the trees is the tiny church at Culbone. The hamlet surrounding the church is listed in the Doomsday book, and through the ages has variously been a prison colony, a leper colony, and a home to charcoal burners. The area is also thought to be the wandering grounds (in an opium haze) of the poet Samuel Taylor Coleridge, who lived nearby at Nether Stowey.

Rainforest
A brief break in the trees

Further on through the trees and I came to the Sisters' Fountain, a stone mound, receiving pool and cross erected over a natural spring. The structure isn’t as ancient as it appears, having been built in the 19th century, and was named after the Glenthorne estate owner’s daughters (or perhaps nieces) who enjoyed playing nearby. Further signs of the estate can be seen in the many escape rhododendrons that bring wonderful (but thuggish) colour to the hillsides.

Sisters' Fountain
Rhododendrons brightening up the greyness

I took my lunch break on an inviting fallen tree trunk, and closed my eyes for a few moments, suddenly feeling very tired. I was woken from my half-nap by a couple of fellow hikers. They had spotted me that morning from the comfort of their hotel breakfast at Porlock weir, and had been following me since. They were using their retirement to walk the entire England coast path in sections, starting with two weeks on the coast path. We continued to bump into each other for the next couple of weeks, and it was lovely to know I had company on the path.

Gateway in the trees

At Kipscombe I was out of the trees, and greeted by the slightly incongruous but very welcome sight of a hikers’ honesty cafe; a table and a couple of chairs complete with tea and coffee making facilities and snacks. The weather and path then conspired to make the last couple of miles into Lynmouth very grim. The rain and fog and wind descended, and the narrow path was high on the side of the cliff with nothing but sheer grassy drop 200m down, to the wild sea below. Very grateful for my borrowed walking poles, I talked myself along, carefully avoiding slipping and sliding on the increasingly muddy path. I finally made it to the outskirts of Lynmouth, leaving the deathly drop-off to wind down the hill into the town.

20 miles done!

I’d hoped for a cup of tea but after consulting the tourist information office, I got straight onto the last train on the cliff railway, which was the most sensible route to the campsite up the valley. By this time my shoulders were extremely painful (possibly something to do with the 20kg pack!), so I found a pharmacy and got some muscle rub cream. Unfortunately no open cafes at the top of the hill, so I grumpily walked the last half a mile to Sunny Lyn campsite, and flopped down on the pitch, no energy to erect the tent. The family next door took pity on me and very kindly invited me for a cup of tea, so I found the motivation to pitch whilst they boiled the kettle.

Surprisingly the fast hiker I met on the campsite in Porlock was also pitched up, having decided not to carry on in the worsening weather. After a shower I adjourned to the pub, which along with excellent microbrew also served delicious Thai food. Suitably warmed through, contentedly full and phone charged, I was back to the tent and into my sleeping bag before dark.

Wednesday 25 March 2020

SWCP Day 1: Up and Away

A note on distances/ascent: I didn’t GPS track, I just used my Garmin to record steps, so all distances/ascents are estimated from the guidebook and distance calculator on the SWCP Association website. However, there seems to be discrepancies all over the place, so distances/ascents are only an estimate! And yes I use miles and metres, it doesn’t make much sense but I can’t help it ๐Ÿ˜œ


Other SWCP posts:

Introduction
Day 2: Porlock to Lynton
Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin
Day 4: Combe Martin to Mortehoe
Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop
Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton
Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!
Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth

Day 1
Minehead to Porlock village
Approx. 7.5 miles, 556m ascent
22,830 steps


My Mum offered to drop me in Minehead, so we set off on the morning of Tuesday 28th May, with the aim of getting walking by late morning. The sun was shining, but the rain was also trying to give it a go, with smatterings of showers. It was a strange feeling on the drive; I’d been in a bit of a whirlwind preparing and simultaneously finishing up at my job, so sitting still for a couple of hours and actually considering what I was about to do was exciting, and the nerves were fluttering around. After a pitstop in Lidl for lunch supplies, we parked up on Minehead front and found the big sculpture that marks the start of the coast path trail. It is an impressively sized monument, and the obligatory pictures were taken. A bit more fussing and checking the backpack and supplies, then there were no more excuses; time to get going. 

Minehead SW coast path sculpture
The sculpture at Minehead marking the start of the Coast Path

Looking all shiny and clean, that t-shirt didn't stay white for long...

Mum joined me for the first couple of miles. All started nice and easy for half a mile, but at the end of the seafront the path rises ominously into the trees. It isn’t a gentle introduction to the path, although probably an accurate foreboding of what the next few weeks would hold! The path climbed steeply up through the wooded hillside to gain a few hundred metres of elevation in a couple of miles or so. The weight of the backpack started to feel ridiculous, I couldn’t imagine how I was going to carry on for 628 more miles. What an absolutely stupid idea this was, too unfit, too unprepared, too scared.

Hard to capture the steepness!

Then we broke through the trees out on to the top of the rolling Exmoor plateau, with Wales glinting in the distance across the blue and turquoise sea. Clouds rolled across the sky, changing the sea colours below. A hint of why it would all be worth it. We decided on a lunch break, and immediately the heavens opened in a sudden downpour. Quick, get the (too neon green) backpack cover out! A task I would become very proficient at over the next several days. As quickly as it arrived the rain disappeared, and we continued up the next rise to join some Exmoor ponies enjoying the view. Mum and I parted ways, and after a last photo and wave I was on my own in the wilds of Exmoor.

Looking across to Wales
Made it to the top!

The clouds cleared and the walk across the tops of the grassy cliffs was easy going and meditative; I found my mind emptying and calming. I barely saw a soul, which was fortunate when it came to needing the first al fresco toilet break, as there wasn’t much cover up there on the plateau! After a few miles easy walking the path plunged alarmingly down a steep rocky slope, and after double-checking the maps and signs, it did indeed appear to be the actual route. Hilarious. A terrifying 5 minutes making full use of the walking poles, and I was relieved to take the weight off my wildly shaking legs on a welcome bench, with views over Bossington beach. Now within a couple of miles of Porlock, I was obviously in dog-walking territory as I suddenly met lots of people (and hounds) enjoying the afternoon sunshine.

Green hills, sunny skies

The first inkling of the descent ahead...

View from the bench, legs shaking!

The difficult walking done, all that remained was to get a little lost coming through the pretty village of Bossington, then head to the campsite in Porlock, up a lane that felt much longer than it really was. Sparkhayes campsite doesn’t have the newest or shiniest facilities, but the owner had thought of everything for the hiker, with a kettle, charging points and a covered seating area, and importantly a reasonable nightly rate. A couple of large flat grassy fields with stone walls meant there was plenty of space despite it being half-term holidays. I successfully pitched my tent for the first time, in the lee of a wall out of the wind. Only minimal swearing, and pauses to chat to the friendly family on the other side of the wall. The first of many conversations about whether I really was carrying that giant backpack, and travelling all alone. A hot shower and then I walked (slowly!) into the village to find delicious beef and Bath Blue pie and plenty of chips at The Piggy In The Middle. 

Marshes behind Bossington beach

Tent successfully pitched! Very good design from Alpkit, so easy really.

Good pie

Successfully avoiding falling asleep into my dinner, I meandered back to the tent, noting the fellow hiker that had arrived whilst I was stuffing myself with pie. Key signs: A tiny tent, clothing strewn drying along all available guy ropes, fences and walls, clearly fast asleep at 8pm. Laid down in my sleeping bag to rest my eyes and aching hips and shoulders, jolted awake a little while later for pre-bed ablutions in the glow of a lovely sunset.


Tuesday 24 March 2020

Distractions and escapism: Join me as I re-live my adventure hiking the SW coast path

Other SWCP posts:

Introduction
Day 1: Minehead to Porlock
Day 2: Porlock to Lynton
Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin
Day 4: Combe Martin to Mortehoe
Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop
Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton
Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!
Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth
Day 43: Kingsand to Plymouth


Introduction


What a strange situation we find ourselves in. I don’t think there is a lot I can say about it all, other than I hope everyone is staying safe and following government and WHO advice, and thank you to the wonderful medical staff and everyone who is keeping things going. Here in the UK we have just entered a period of lockdown - no leaving home except for food and essential supplies, and one session of exercise a day. How quickly normal life can disappear. I’m not really able to do my work from home, so for something to do and as a distraction, I’m going to write up my big adventure from last year. If you fancy some escapism, and lots of photos of the beautiful South West coast, please join me. 

In May 2019 my 2.5 year job contract came to an end, so it was the ideal opportunity to do something I’ve fancied for a long time: Walk the South West Coast path in the UK. This is a 630 mile hiking trail, hugging the coast line from Minehead in Somerset, all the way along the north coast of Devon and Cornwall down to Land’s end, then back up the South coast of Cornwall and Devon, finishing in Studland in Dorset. I’ve lived close to the Dorset part of the coast path for much of my life, and liked the idea of walking the path; stunning scenery, time away from it all, getting back to nature, and a physical challenge. I didn’t seriously consider it until I heard an episode of the Tough Girl podcast with Zoe Langley-Wathen, who successfully walked the path a few years ago. She made it sound so achievable, and I thought, why not just do it?

The route

I made a firm decision around the middle of April, and decided to start at the end of May, a few days after my last day at work. Luckily navigating the path is very straight-forward so didn’t require much planning, just follow the signs and keep the sea on your right-hand side! To minimise costs I decided to camp, sticking to campsites as I am not an experienced wild-camper, and you can’t strictly legally wild-camp in England. I bought the SW Coast Path Association guidebook, and some very useful map books so I didn’t need to carry several OS maps. I planned to roughly following the 52 day itinerary, with adjustments depending on campsite locations (and pasty opportunities!), and a few rest days thrown in. Making a spreadsheet of campsite locations and contacts was an excellent time-waster during my last few days at work.

Maps and guide book; I recommend both!

Next up, I assembled the necessary kit. A somewhat limited budget meant I couldn’t get the newest and lightest of everything, so I made do with my chunky Decathlon sleeping bag and a perfectly serviceable Thermarest mat. I discovered Alpkit as an excellent source of good value kit. I treated myself to a lightweight tent and a simple stove, and also invested in a proper beast of an Osprey backpack. A final luxury purchase was a Finisterre insulated jacket, totally extravagant but a little bit of comfort in the cool evenings.

Too much stuff...


A comprehensive (and sometimes ill-advised) Kit List:


Osprey Ariel 65L backpack
Alpkit Ordos 3 tent with extra footprint (an excessive tent choice but I wanted to be able to use it with the boyfriend in the future)
Decathlon Forclaz light 5ยบ sleeping bag
Thermarest self-inflating mat
Snugpak bivvi bag (in case of wild camping, and also an extra layer of warmth)

Finisterre Nimbus insulated jacket
Regatta waterproof jacket (had it for ages)
Decathlon waterproof trousers (cheap and cheerful)
Regatta walking boots (more on these bastards later…)
Merrell walking sandals

Ravpower folding 16w solar panel
Kobo e-reader
Petzl Tikkina head torch + spare batteries
USB powerpack
Mains USB adaptor
iPhone 6 + cable
Garmin Vivoactive 3 watch + cable
Bluetooth headphones

Alpkit Brukit stove (cheap alternative to a Jetboil)
Keepcup
Reusable coffee filter
Plastic plate
Alpkit long spork
Spatula
Friction firestarter
Sawyer mini water filter
1.5 litre decathlon water bottle
750ml water bottle
2x folding 500ml water bottles
Swiss army knife (a lovely gift from the boyfriend)
A couple of food clips and clothes pegs
Cloth
2x zip ties
Duct tape (a couple of metres wrapped around an old cotton reel)

Fresh coffee
Instant noodles
Cereal bars
Fruit and nut mix
Oatcakes
Instant soup
(I mostly planned to buy food on the way as there are plenty of shops/cafes/restaurants on the path)

Map book
SWCP Association guidebook
Compass
Notebook + pen

First aid kit
Osprey wash bag
Nail clippers, scissors
Deodorant
Lush shampoo/soap bar
Lush moisturiser bar
Lush toothpaste tabs
Toothbrush
Moisturiser
Suncream
Aftersun
Alcohol gel
Baby wipes
Tissues
Lip salve (with spf)
Ear plugs
Contact lenses
Glasses
Sunglasses

A couple of carrier bags for rubbish etc
Trowel (advised for ‘calls of nature’)

2x Craghopper trousers
2x Craghopper shorts 
2x Patagonia t-shirts
Patagonia long sleeve t-shirt
Patagonia lightweight hoody
Lightweight trackie bottoms for camp/pjs
Cotton t-shirt for camp/pjs
Cotton socks for camp/pjs
2x sports bras
3x merino blend walking socks
5 x knickers
Bikini
Decathlon quick-drying towel 
Woolly hat
Woolly gloves
Foldable sunhat
Cheapo PlanetX buff (weirdly turned out to be my favourite item!)

Decathlon packable 20l rucksack
Drybags (1 for clothes, 1 for sleeping bag, 1 for electricals, and a big one to line the entire main rucksack compartment)
Decathlon hiking poles (lent by my Mum)

I’m sure you experienced hikers out there are rolling around laughing at that lot! Yes I definitely packed too much, it is quite hilarious seeing it all written down now. I didn’t ever weigh my pack but I suspect it was close to 20kg with food and water included! I did end up ditching several items throughout the walk when I realised they were ridiculously unnecessary.

Personalised Swiss Army knife, a gift from the boyfriend

Testing my new Alpkit stove: Really simple to use!

Too little too late, but a training walk on my local bit of path

Now, I’m not completely unfit, I do regularly walk/cycle/kayak and generally try to be quite active, but I had never before done a multi-day hike, so this was definitely going to be a new challenge. I probably did myself a favour by deciding to do it last minute, I didn’t give myself a chance to think about the actual walking part! I did squeeze a couple of test walks with the rucksack, although never completely loaded, so no chance to realise what I was really getting myself in for… Next up, can I make it up the first hill out of Minehead? Will I eat anything other than pasties for 6 weeks? And will I get blown off the cliff above Lynton? 

Why is this backpack so damn heavy?!