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Thursday 7 May 2020

SWCP Day 21: Sands of Time

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Day 21

Crantock to St Agnes

Approx. 9.5 miles, 560m ascent

30,366 steps



I woke up raring to go, and made a fairly early start despite only having a relatively short distance to do. I would be meeting my Grandparents in St Agnes in the afternoon for another few days of familial support, and giant-backpack-free walking. I found my way back across Cubert common, without getting quite so lost in the sand dunes, and rejoined the path at Holywell bay, with the skies a little brighter than the day before. 

The path out of Holywell
Holywell bay in the morning sunshine

The path quickly rose above the beach to Penhale point, skirting the edge of another old military site. Again the vibe was really off and spooky, lots of old equipment and antennae littering the landscape. The route passed a strange lonely house on the clifftop, then turned the corner and was in sight of the massive expanse of Perran beach, with Perranporth visible a couple of miles away along the long sandy stretch. I had timed it right and the tide was out so I could walk the entire length along the sand; no need to get lost in the sand dunes! I found the firm strip of sand in the middle of the width of the beach, and settled in to a couple of easy miles, with just a few kite surfers and dog walkers for company on the empty northern part. 

Perran bay, looking towards St Agnes head
All the sand

When I was planning the walk I had thought it would be an excellent opportunity for some quality thinking time. All those miles, and I needed to consider what I was going to do after the path, as I had no job to go to and very little plan for the future. It was a strange time, and the walk was a useful marker and an achievable and finite task. However, I found that I thought of very little at all whilst walking, even when on easy and monotonous stretches like the beach. I didn’t feel bored and I didn’t need to listen to music or podcasts or anything, my mind just floated along, mostly empty except for perhaps considering what the next meal might be. It was very pleasant, but not so useful for making big life decisions and plans!

Finally coming to the end of the beach a couple of miles of sand later, I reached the little town of Perranporth, and went on a lunch hunt, settling for a veggie street food place which did the most excellent homemade nachos and chilli. Suitably well-fed I found my way back out of town and back up onto the clifftop, with spectacular views back along Perran beach. Just out on the cliff and watching my step on the narrow gravelly path, I spotted a bunch of keys looking lost, and moved them to a more prominent spot in case their owner returned. A short while later a runner passed, looking like they were on the hunt, so I pointed them back to the spot, and they were very grateful to be reunited.

Delicious lunch!
Expanse of Perran beach
Looking back again
Old quarries and collapsed mines

The last stretch towards St Agnes was easy walking, mostly level through old quarries bordering a little airfield, and views along to the headland and to the Bawden rocks out to sea. I made excellent time and by 2pm had found my way to the lovely little Caravan club site that my Grandparents had pitched their caravan on, just a little way off the path. It was great to have some company again, and their bouncy golden retriever Peggy was full of beans and very pleased to be out and about in Cornwall with lots of new places to explore. After a short walk together out to the cliffs, I thoroughly enjoyed making use of the excellent caravan amenities, with my tent pitched outside for my own bedroom space.

Rocky coast continues
Looking down to St Agnes
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