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Friday 10 April 2020

SWCP Day 8: Tuna in the Woods

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Day 8

Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Approx. 9 miles, 900m ascent
22,981 steps


And this, my dear readers, is the only photo I took during the entire day’s walk! As forecast, the morning was already drizzly and grey. I managed to pack up the tent in between showers, and discovered it is just about possible to take the inner part down first, despite it being pitched inside first. I huddled with the Belgian walker in the campsite kitchen area, and we both made instant porridge for breakfast. I took a while to finish packing so Annalise was off ahead of me, and I didn’t see her again on the path. I took this photo after climbing out of the first steep valley of the day. Although it was quite a short distance to Clovelly, the guidebook rates this section as ‘strenuous’ so I was prepared for lots of elevation changes.

The rain worsened and I made the stupid mistake (again!) of not putting my waterproof trousers on straight away, so soon had soaking legs and feet from the persistent drizzle and sodden long grass lining the path. At Peppercombe I discovered the National Trust Old coach house, which has been made into a hiking shelter and picnic spot. I stopped for second breakfast, hobbit-style, and laid out my socks and boots to dry off for half an hour, enjoying the chalkboard of nature finds recorded by other visitors.

At Buck’s Mills, the only settlement I would pass all day, my hopes of a hot cup of tea were raised by signs for a cafe, then immediately dashed as it was clearly not open for the very few hikers that were out on such a miserable day. Disappointed but very hungry, with nowhere else to shelter I tucked in at the base of a big tree trunk, and for lunch ate tuna out of the can with oatcakes. With the hangryness edge taken off, I looked around and saw I was in a really lovely green woodland, full of wildflowers and massive old trees, covered in quilts of thick moss. 

Continuing the climb out of the steep valley, the path dived in and out of the trees, and seemed to be on a never-ending rollercoaster of small ascents and descents, which quickly got frustrating and tiring. Finally the path joined The Hobby Drive, an old cliff-top carriage route built in the early 1800s, and extended further in 1901. The route would have been a picturesque and gentle carriage drive for the Hamyln family who acquired Clovelly and the surrounding estate in 1738. The drive is at a fairly constant elevation high on the wooded cliffs, and loops in and out of valleys on a cobbled trackway, with occasional views out to sea. I was grateful to only have a couple of miles of easy walking left to do, although the cobbles were alarmingly slippery in the rain.

99 miles done!

I made it to the visitor centre above Clovelly village by mid-afternoon, and resolved to see if I could get a hotel room in the village, as there were no campsite options and I was thoroughly soaked through. I probably would have agreed to a room at any price, but when I enquired at the information desk I was very pleased to find a B&B room available in the New Inn for just £40, bargain!

Clovelly village

I made my way down into the village and was instantly charmed. I had been prepared for it to be a bit of a theme park tourist trap, but it was really very lovely, particularly as the rain had finally stopped, and there was barely a soul about. I found the hotel half way down the hill, and was shown to my room, complete with big bed, ensuite with a bathtub, and plenty of beige upholstery. After spreading the entire contents of my wet backpack around every available surface and radiator, and investigating all the drawers and books, I was very contented with my choices. 

Retro but comfy!
Looking back the way I had come

A short while later I was pleased to get a message from the hiking couple I had met in Porlock, who had also just arrived in Clovelly after surviving the wet walking. They were staying at the posh Red Lion Inn on the harbour wall, and kindly invited me to join them for dinner. A massive upgrade from my intended dinner in my hotel, I scrabbled to work out what items of clothing were the least smelly, and how to make myself vaguely presentable for a fancy three course dinner. We had a delightful evening, and it was a pleasure to spend a bit more time with my fellow hikers and get to know them better.

Looking up to the village from the harbour wall
Clovelly harbour
Boats in the harbour
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