SWCP Day 6: Beaches, Dunes, Sands

Other SWCP posts:

Introduction

Day 1: Minehead to Porlock

Day 2: Porlock to Lynton

Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin

Day 4: Combe Martin to Mortehoe

Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop
Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!
Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth

Day 33: Maenporth to Portscatho

Day 34: Portscatho to Boswinger

Day 35: Boswinger to Pentewan

Day 36: Pentewan to Polkerris

Days 37-39: Polkerris to Fowey

Day 40: Polruan to Polperro

Day 41: Polperro to Seaton

Day 42: Seaton to Kingsand

Day 43: Kingsand to Plymouth

Day 6
Mortehoe to Braunton
Approx. 13 miles, 350m ascent
35,564 steps

As predicted, the day started off very soggy and windy. I managed to get the tent packed away without it getting too damp inside, very glad I had pitched in the shelter behind a big hedge. After a breakfast of pastries from the campsite shop I headed straight down the hill from Mortehoe into Woolacombe in the drizzly weather, pleased that I had decided to do the Morte Point loop the day before. A pause in the beachfront toilets at Woolacombe to put on my waterproof trousers, and just to generally assess the hilarity of walking for no particular reason in the miserable weather. Despite this, I found I was in a buoyant mood, well-rested from the day off and raring to go.

The tide was quite far out so I chose to walk along the sands of Woolacombe beach, instead of taking the route through the dunes. I found the firmer sand near the waters’ edge and settled in to the 2 mile length, enjoying watching the myriad dog walkers, horse riders and surfers, determinedly making the most of the beach despite the weather. At the south edge of the beach I found the steps back up to the path and stood and watched the surfers enjoying the ragged waves. I got chatting to a woman who was flushed with the thrill of her first surfing holiday. She was full of the joy of catching waves, and I realised I missed surfing a lot, having not been for several years. The surfers would be a constant through the rest if North Devon and the Cornish coast, and would always be excellent distraction and entertainment.

Looking back up the beach to Woolacombe

I followed the path, now high above Putsborough Sands and heading towards Baggy point. I paused to admire the view back up the beach to Woolacombe, and exchanged pleasantries and some local tips with a guy who was out with his camera. Rounding the headland I was hit with the full force of the wind and rain, and the last half a mile down into Croyde was wet and wild. I stopped at the National Trust tea room at Sandleigh for some lunch, and was glad the floor was tiled as I proceeded to drip and gently steam in the corner next to a welcome radiator, slightly in disbelief that it was the 2nd of June and not mid-November. After a sandwich and a cream tea (When in the West Country!), and somewhat drier than when I rolled in, I headed back out into the improving weather.

I found the route across Croyde bay, which required a diversion into the dunes to a bridge across the stream that was flowing into the sea through the main stretch of sand. I rounded the next headland into view of Saunton Sands, and was distracted by the ugly sight of what seemed to be a massive abandoned building project, right on the headland. Confused as to how it had ever been given planning permission, it annoyingly also forced the path up on to the road. I later discovered the full story of the half-built house, as it featured in the 2019 series of Grand Designs. The extravagant project had been abandoned as the owners had massively overstretched themselves and run out of money, and now it was an eyesore on a beautiful bit of coastline.

Croyde Bay and Baggy Point, looking north

The path had to follow the coast road for a couple of hundred metres, before crossing and heading up the hill a short distance behind the road. As I was hurrying along to get the busy road out of the way, I felt something hard hit me on the shoulder; some horrible person had decided to chuck something at me, even though I was following the official route! Frightened and upset, I half-ran the last few metres up the hill back onto footpath, then looked back down the road. A couple of minutes later a woman drove slowly past, obviously looking for something. She stopped and retrieved a coffee cup from the side of the road, and then shouted a half-hearted apology to me, explaining that she had left the coffee on her car roof as she drove off. I’m pretty certain it was the owner of the ugly unfinished house! Cross, but thankful that I hadn’t actually been on the receiving end of some hiker-hate, I settled back down to walking. 

The rain had finally eased off, and the view across Saunton Sands and Braunton Burrows was spectacular. I took off my waterproof trousers, then quickly put them back on as I realised my mistake; the long grass along the path was still sodden and I quickly got soaking legs!

Saunton Sands, with Braunton Burrows behind

The last few miles of official path into Braunton takes you on a merry detour down through the maze of sand dunes that is Braunton Burrows, behind the massive beach of Saunton Sands. Looking at the map and the campsite location, I decided I didn’t fancy a two hour long loop through the dunes, so I shortened my route to just take in a short section of the Burrows, getting a flavour of the unique landscape, then cutting up to the campsite along a lane instead of going all the way down to Crow Point.

Pleased with my choice which meant I now had no need to rush to get to the campsite at a sensible time, I enjoyed the diversion of walking up and down the dunes, with lots of wildflowers and birds to spot. The Burrows is absolutely massive, covering about 1000 hectares, and is designated Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONB) and a UNESCO Biosphere reserve. There is a rich diversity of plant and animal life, including orchids, and many butterflies and other insects, as well as a huge range of birds and 5 species of native reptile.

The sun finally broke out from the clouds, and I discovered a hidden little cafe in a walkers’ car park at the edge of the Burrows. I had a break in the sunshine with a lemonade and chocolate brownie, then completed the final mile along a lane to the campsite, in the company of a podcast to help the monotonous walking go by.

Now the half-term holidays were over, I felt confident presenting myself at the campsite without ringing ahead, and was successful as the massive campsite at Lobb fields was practically empty. The manager kindly let me have a premium pitch in the shelter of some hedges, and I could have pitched a marquee on the massive plot, my tiny little tent looked quite ridiculous set up in the corner! 

Giant pitch!

A very empty campsite

I made use of the lovely campsite takeaway for dinner, the friendly chef even gave me a free cup of tea as I regaled her with my tales of the path. Despite the damp start, I’d had a really good day, and although partly due to the low ascent, I’d felt much more comfortable and at ease with the walking.