SWCP Day 7: On Track

Other SWCP posts:

Introduction
Day 1: Minehead to Porlock
Day 2: Porlock to Lynton
Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin
Day 4: Combe Martin to Mortehoe
Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop
Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton
Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth

Day 33: Maenporth to Portscatho

Day 34: Portscatho to Boswinger

Day 35: Boswinger to Pentewan

Day 36: Pentewan to Polkerris

Days 37-39: Polkerris to Fowey

Day 40: Polruan to Polperro

Day 41: Polperro to Seaton

Day 42: Seaton to Kingsand

Day 43: Kingsand to Plymouth

Day 7
Braunton to Westward Ho!
Approx. 25.5 miles, 200m ascent (walked approx. 11.5 miles)
28,218 steps

After much map-studying and reading of the guidebook, I had discovered that the next campsite was over 25 miles away, beyond Westward Ho!. The official path required a big diversion inland along the Taw estuary to Barnstaple, followed by heading up the Torridge estuary to Bideford, with no other way to get across the estuary mouths. The path mainly followed cycle paths along an old railway line route, and looked to be pretty dull. Without much persuasion required, I decided I didn’t fancy 25 miles of boring walking, so I would make use of the good bus service to break up the day. I’m sure the dedicated walkers among you will be horrified at such blatant cheating! However, my walk: my rules, and estuary isn’t proper coastline anyway ;)

After a big breakfast at the campsite cafe I found the bus stop and got on my first bus of the day, heading from Braunton to Barnstaple. I was born in Barnstaple hospital, and I don’t think I’ve been back to the town since! I didn’t find much to see, but I topped up my cash stash and made use of the public loos. I headed over the river across the Long Bridge, then found my way out of town through a series of uninspiring industrial estates. Back in open countryside, the path followed the route of the river flowing out to sea, along the paved Tarka Trail. The route must be an excellent cycle, smooth tarmac and very little gradient, with views across the estuary; probably very enjoyable at 10 miles and hour, but very monotonous at walking pace! At least there were a few interesting graffitied shelters, and plenty of dog walkers and cyclists to say hello to along the way. 

Crossing the bridge in Barnstaple

The Taw estuary

Nowhere

Flat flat tarmac

At Fremington I made use of the amenities in the old station building, then continued on into the Isley Marsh nature reserve. There didn’t seem to be a huge amount of nature around; just a few wading birds and crows, plus several people spaced along the mudflats digging up worms for fishing bait. The coast path route took a diversion away from the cycle path for the last stretch into Instow, meandering around the back of a quarry and other industrial-looking fixtures. Overall, not the most exciting morning of walking, and the flat tarmac was surprisingly harsh on the feet; I was very ready for a lunchtime break.

More estuary views

Quarries and mudflats

At Instow I found a lovely deli with a cafe, and set myself up with a view looking out onto the estuary at low tide, filled with beached yachts and boats. There were plenty of dog walkers taking advantage of the exposed sands, so I had an enjoyable session of people-watching ahead. I commandeered a power socket to charge my phone (with permission!), and ate a massive mezze board, followed by chocolate cake.

Looking across to Appledore

Thoroughly bored of the flat featureless walking, I found another bus and travelled the last few miles on to Westward Ho!, via Bideford. Deposited on the seafront, I located a Co-op supermarket and pondered non-perishable food options for that evening and the next day, as there would be no further refreshment opportunities until I arrived in Clovelly the following afternoon. It is quite a challenge to find nutrient-dense, interesting, non-perishable and not too heavy food in your standard small supermarket! I settled on tuna (in a ringpull can), as well as various snacks and noodles.

Westward Ho! front, looking back to Saunton Sands

Finding the path out of town, I bumped into the hiking couple I had met near Porlock, who I hadn’t seen since Combe Martin. Surprised to see each other, we worked out with the different rest days, and my bus-cheating, that we were back to walking in sync, so made plans to meet up in Clovelly the next day. I carried on to the campsite, following a very pleasant section of path, and pleased to be back to some gentle gradients after the relentless flat walking of the morning. The sun was out and there were lots of wild flowers lining the grassy cliff edges. 

Back on proper coast path

I found the little orchard campsite at Greencliff, and pitched my tent in the most beautiful spot so far, surrounded by fruit trees and with a view down to the sea below. I spread my smelly socks and t-shirts out, and made the most of the peace and remaining sunshine. Later I was joined by a fellow hiker, Annalise, who was visiting from Belgium and was planning on completing the path in only 28 days. We cooked and ate noodles together and I asked a million questions as she had hiked all over the world, so had lots of tips for a newbie like me. My big fat tent looked very extravagant in comparison to her tiny minimalist hiker tent! Bed before sunset, we both planned an early start to get ahead of the rain that was forecast from mid-morning the following day.

Orchard campsite