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Sunday 24 May 2020

SWCP Day 27: Tarmac trudging

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Day 27

Lamorna to Marazion

Approx. 9.2 miles, 220m ascent

23,621 steps


I agreed with the Grandparents that I would make today a short day, so we could all have a bit of lie-in. With just 9ish miles to do, we got going at about 10ish, heading back to Lamorna to rejoin the path. The day was rather grey and threatening a bit of drizzly rain, but I was happy to have a bit of cooler weather for walking after a few days of feeling a bit overheated. 

Lamorna cove

The first couple of miles of path out of Lamorna clung low to the cliffs, through rocky and boulder-strewn terrain. A few little ups and downs and I was soon out of the wild and into the outskirts of Mousehole. I was quite looking forward to seeing the little town as when I was a child we had read the book ‘The Mousehole cat’ by Antonia Barber, set in the iconic harbour. I do remember being quite frightened of the book, as it features a big scary storm, but it has beautiful illustrations of the town. Unfortunately with the drizzly weather and cars parked all around the harbour it wasn’t quite as picturesque as I was anticipating, and it being a Sunday morning, I couldn’t find an open cafe or coffee place for a refresher. I made use of the public toilets then moved swiftly on.

Mousehole harbour
The harbour again

The path would now be on pavement for the rest of the day, following the edge of Mount’s bay around to Marazion and St Michael’s Mount. First I went through Newlyn, one of the biggest proper fishing ports left in the UK. Unsurprisingly it was quite an industrial landscape, and again I failed to find anywhere to stop for the rapidly approaching lunchtime, despite zigzagging through several back streets.

Plenty of boat life at Newlyn

The weather got a bit wetter, but I was soon on the outskirts of Penzance, now with a lunch stop-off top of my agenda. After a wander through the Sunday quiet, I finally found the lovely Honeypot cafe that was actually open and serving brunch, and settled in to a big cooked breakfast, delicious proper hot chocolate and an espresso to wake me up for the final stretch of slightly dull afternoon walking.

On my way through Penzance I made use of some civilisation to top up my cash and suncream supplies, and bought a pair of hilariously bright hippy trousers to wear whilst doing my laundry, so I could actually get everything washed, and not have to sit around in my underwear! Although it is a little grungy in places I do like Penzance, it has a friendly and alternative feel, and lots of indie shops.

Horses and riders making the most of the vast beach
St Michael's Mount in the gloom
The view from the Mount back to Marazion, in sunnier weather

Past the train station and onto the wide path running along the back of the long expanse of sand running all the way round the bay to St Michael’s Mount. About 3 miles of unexciting walking later and I made it into the village at Marazion, in the shadow of the mount. The tide was out so the causeway was exposed, but as I had explored the island and castle with the boyfriend the previous year, and in much nicer weather, so I didn’t feel the need to linger. I scoped out the village for lunch picnic opportunities for the next day, and met up with my Grandad for my last night of caravan luxury with them; I would be back with the big backpack and tent tomorrow.

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