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Sunday 7 June 2020

SWCP Day 31: Becalmed

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Day 31

Rest day in Coverack

(Thursday)

5,316 steps


As forecast, the winds picked up strongly overnight, with gusts of something like 60mph. It was particularly bad as it was blowing from the east and therefore directly onshore at the east-facing Coverack. I was extremely glad of my decision to wait it out for a couple of days in the youth hostel; I’m not sure the tent would have withstood the weather. A rest day was also very welcome as the aches and pains were starting to build up, particularly as I had now walked for 10 days in a row (oops). My feet were very painful, they felt like all the bones were crunched up and almost sprained, very nasty as I needed my feet! I was also generally feeling pretty rubbish; too many days in the hot sun and too many pasties!

I had a very relaxed day, starting with a good lie-in then a decent breakfast in the hostel, watching the waves crashing out of the window. Despite the high winds it was a beautifully clear and sunny day, so I made the most of it and thoroughly cleaned my boots, and also re-glued the insoles once again, leaving them in the sunshine to dry.

Big waves

I took a (gentle, slow!) wander into the village and had a little explore, watching the waves trying to get to the little boats hunkered behind the protection of the harbour wall. I stocked up on dinner supplies at the village shop, and had a jolt back to the real world overhearing the locals complaining about politics. I sat in the sun and enjoyed another ice cream from the cafe next to the harbour, then limped back up the hill to the hostel.

The harbour wall showing its worth

I spent most of the rest of the day with the map and guidebook spread out in the lounge planning my next few days of accommodation, ringing a couple of campsites to check they had space over the weekend. I had mostly been ringing a day or two ahead, mainly for my own peace of mind to know I would have somewhere to stay, but I hadn’t had any problems at all getting on any campsites. Apart from the first week when it had been the school half term holiday, most of the sites had been practically empty, but I expected things to start getting busier as the main school holidays approached.

Tomorrow would be a tricky day with the wind still present, and a couple of ferry crossings that may or may not be possible in the conditions. I wanted to get back on the path, I just hoped my feet would be up to walking!

Raging easterly!

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