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Wednesday, 22 April 2020

SWCP Day 16: Deep in slate country

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Day 16

Tintagel to Port Isaac
Approx. 9.1 miles, 789m ascent
27,976 steps


The damp weather continued overnight, but at least the wind dropped to a more sensible level, and we were greeted by only a fine drizzle in the morning. We packed away the tents ready to relocate further down the coast, and headed back to Tintagel for a decent full english breakfast. Suitably refuelled, and a pasty in the backpack for lunch, we made our way back to the path via the pretty clifftop church, built in the 11th or 12th century. It has a really interesting floor out of slates laid on their edges, in a chequerboard pattern. The first section of the path out of Tintagel was fairly easy-going, staying high on the craggy cliffs, passing interesting slate mine remains, some lonely pillars of rock remaining. We were definitely in slate country, with herringbone walls dissecting the fields. We passed by the Youth Hostel, perched high above the sea, definitely one to stay in in the future!


Imposing cliffs
Good to have company!
Slate quarry remains, Gull Rock in the background
Good walls

A couple of miles on and the path dropped sharply down into the rocky cove of Trebarwith Strand, with Gull Rock standing prominently out to sea. Mum and I parted ways on the beach front, and I made a start on the epic set of steps heading back up the hill out of the village. Just as soon as I gained the 100m summit, the path plunged down again to sea level, and I was very pleased to only have the small backpack with me once again. The ups and downs continued, but apart from feeling rather tired the walking didn’t feel too hard, and the views and flower-filled valleys made for very enjoyable scenery. 

Trebarwith Strand, waving bye to Mum!
Flower-filled valley

I chose a particularly picturesque valley for a lunch spot, glad that the weather had brightened up over the course of the morning. I settled into the slope of the hill and found myself in danger of dropping off to sleep, enjoying the calm sounds of the nearby sea and a gentle breeze. I jolted back to it when a couple of hikers passed me a little while later and persuaded myself to get back to it. I had just a couple of valleys left to conquer, before the long level section running on to Port Isaac. I made it into adjacent Port Gaverne by mid-afternoon, and met up with Mum, who had already scoped out the secret campsite we had been tipped off about. It was in a nice little field next to a stream, and very cheap. 

The sun breaking through
Port Gaverne bay

The sun properly came out, and we had a relaxing couple of hours dozing in the sunshine. At dinnertime we made the short walk up into Port Isaac, hoards of Doc Martin fans photographing all the key filming locations. We got some fish and chips and found a bench with a view above the harbour, carefully guarding our dinner from the attention of the Herring gulls circling around us. A walk around the village in search of phone signal to call home, then back to the tents, now joined by some fellow hikers who were obviously also in on the secret site location.

Dinner company!

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