SWCP Day 33: A place called Place

Other SWCP posts:

Introduction
Day 1: Minehead to Porlock
Day 2: Porlock to Lynton
Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin
Day 4: Combe Martin to Mortehoe
Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop
Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton
Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!
Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth

Day 34: Portscatho to Boswinger

Day 35: Boswinger to Pentewan

Day 36: Pentewan to Polkerris

Days 37-39: Polkerris to Fowey

Day 40: Polruan to Polperro

Day 41: Polperro to Seaton

Day 42: Seaton to Kingsand

Day 43: Kingsand to Plymouth

Day 33

Maenporth to Portscatho

Approx. 10 miles, 500m ascent

23,459 steps

I got up for an early morning toilet visit and realised I could hardly stand on my feet; after a very slow and painful limp to the toilet block I couldn’t imagine how I would be able to complete the 10 or so miles on the schedule for the day ahead. When I dragged myself out of bed a couple of hours later I laced my feet fairly tightly into my walking boots and downed some ibuprofen, and I was at least able to hobble around and pack up camp. I couldn’t really stay put as there was nothing in the way of food supplies close to the campsite, so I decided to get going and hope the feet would feel a little better once I got moving.

Early morning horse riders on the path from the campsite and surfers enjoying the tidy waves at Maenporth lifted my spirits somewhat, along with the overcast cool weather. A bit of googling the previous evening had identified a promising breakfast spot on the outskirts of Falmouth just a couple of miles away, and the thought of eggs royale and a decent cup of coffee kept me going along the first gentle section of the path. Thankfully with the support of the boots the foot pain was manageable, and I was soon in sight of breakfast salvation at Gyllyngvase beach.

Maenporth surfers

Maenporth

Murky morning

It was Saturday and the big beachside cafe was very busy with a stylish brunch crowd, but I managed to find an outside table out of the way, my rumbling stomach overcoming any embarrassment about my scruffy appearance and cumbersome backpack. I had a delicious breakfast with an excellent view, watching big groups of swimmers and water aerobics ladies enjoying the calm waters in the bay.

On the approach to Falmouth

Gyllyngvase beach

Feeling thoroughly revived I headed straight into Falmouth, declining to take the mile-long route around the headland past the castle and docks, which didn’t particularly interest me. A meander through the vibrant town centre, with a couple of stops to make use of civilisation and restock some supplies, and I found the ferry terminal for the ferry onwards to St Mawes. I had two ferry crossings to complete today, and thankfully the weather was much calmer so I had no issues unlike the fun at Helford the previous day.

Departing Falmouth

The first ferry was the biggest I had been on on the walk, crossing the very busy Falmouth harbour in about 20 minutes. It was a very enjoyable crossing, with plenty of people out enjoying the dry Saturday weather. St Mawes is an extremely pretty little town perched on the edge of the harbour, and apparently a very popular spot for tourists as it was heaving with people. I didn’t linger, just finding a pasty for lunch whilst waiting for the next ferry to Place. This was a much smaller affair, with just half a dozen fellow passengers. We were deposited on the other side a few minutes later at a floating jetty, and I was soon away from the crowds into the verdant wooded hillside surrounding Place house. I was completely charmed by the delightful Swallows and Amazons landscape, and despite the sore feet was having a thoroughly lovely day. 

Approaching St Mawes

Heading across to Place

I made use of a conveniently located bench for my lunch break, with a view out into the river mouth harbour and lots of boat traffic for entertainment. After a bit of a break I continued on to the lighthouse at St Anthony head, enjoying the far-reaching views back across to Falmouth, with many little sailing boats skittering around in the waters below me. I was soon around the headland with just a few easy miles to cover over the afternoon, tracing low cliffs behind sandy beaches.

Swallows and Amazons

Lunch spot

The sun put in an appearance and at Towan beach I found myself pulled irresistibly up the path behind the beach, following signs for refreshments at the National Trust Porth farm. I was pleased to find a delightful courtyard cafe serving ice-creams, so I stopped for a while in the shade and made my way through yet another delicious Roskilly Mango sorbet.

St Anthony lighthouse

A short while later I found the excellent Treloan campsite just a couple of hundred metres from the path, and despite being very busy with weekenders, they were able to find me a nice quiet sheltered corner. I was also extremely happy to learn that on a Saturday night they had a mobile pizza oven attending with fresh proper pizzas, so after setting up camp and a refreshing shower, I presented myself for a delicious beef and blue cheese affair. Despite the sore feet, I had had a brilliant day ferry-hopping and walking through a lovely quite piece of Cornwall, definitely a spot I will be revisiting!

More excellent pizza!