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Tuesday 28 April 2020

SWCP Day 18: Paradise after the rain

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Day 18

Padstow to Porthcothan

Approx. 14 miles, 476m ascent

37,752 steps


A bit of an epic day this one, and I have a lot of pictures because it was such a stunning section, so I will do this post slightly differently and mostly just talk you through the pics.


It was a grey and drizzly start once again. After a brief stop in Padstow for supplies from Boots I followed the path out of town and along the edge of the Camel estuary, with views back across to Pentire Point.


I paused at the lookout station at Stepper Point and the sun started breaking through. My boots were already giving me trouble; I had made the mistake of stuffing them with newspaper overnight as they were rather wet, but on removing the paper wad the insole in one of the boots had come loose and was now shifting around and threatening to induce blisters. I had looked for waterproofing spray in Padstow but they only had a missive can, so I would have to survive until Newquay, when I hoped I would be able to sort a proper fix.


Looking onwards to the big headland at Trevose Head, not too many big ups and downs on the way thankfully, as the bag was feeling heavy!


At Trevone bay I stopped for an excellent and much-needed coffee and got a takeaway ham and cheese toasty for lunch. The weather was really brightening up and the sea was a stunning colour. Paddle-boarders making the most of it.


Lots of small rocky islands off this piece of coast, must be a navigational nightmare for boats, but beautiful.


I stopped on a bench overlooking the gorgeous Harlyn bay to eat my lunch. I took off the increasingly uncomfortable boots and aired my feet. A hiker stopped to chat; he was doing the entire coast path but in the reverse direction, having started in Poole about 5 weeks previously. He seemed very settled in to the path and I suspect he was wild-camping; definitely looked rather rugged.


I missed the steps up off the beach and had to back-track, but was soon back to the path and now in the blazing sunshine, quite the contrast to the morning. The view of the lifeboat station heading to the headland, I bet those houses are worth a bit!


Looking back to the Camel estuary, glad I had escaped those clouds, it was nice to be back in fine weather after quite a bit of rain.


Nearly at Trevose head, and both Mother Ivey’s Bay and Constantine bay are visible on either side of the headland.


Trevose head, with stepping stone rocky islands reaching out into the big blue Atlantic.


Another lighthouse to add to the collection!


Constantine bay, facing into the wind so quite a different feel to Harlyn, and surprisingly more people, considering how much more sheltered and (dare I say) beautiful Harlyn is.


A delay getting cross the beach at Treyarnon, as they had the beach closed for Doc Martin filming. You can see the group of people with the boom mic in the sea. Presumably Martin Clunes is in there somewhere. I only had to pause for about half an hour whilst they got shots looking up the beach, and then the organisers let me carry on. On the way up the hill I got chatting to a guy digging a trench, he had completed a big section of the path with a mate a couple of years before, running it continuously for about 3 days for charity. I was glad of my more leisurely pace!


I found a passable campsite at Porthcothan. They weren’t really used to hikers I don’t think, and their facilities weren’t great, but they did supply me with a big piece of chocolate cake, which I happily ate in the tent, quite the Friday night party!

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