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Monday 29 June 2020

SWCP Day 36: This is the land of my content

Other SWCP posts:

Introduction
Day 1: Minehead to Porlock
Day 2: Porlock to Lynton
Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin
Day 4: Combe Martin to Mortehoe
Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop
Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton
Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!
Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth

Days 37-39: Polkerris to Fowey

Day 40: Polruan to Polperro

Day 41: Polperro to Seaton

Day 42: Seaton to Kingsand

Day 43: Kingsand to Plymouth


Day 36

Pentewan to Polkerris

Approx. 11.5 miles, 750m ascent

27,519 steps


After a restful night on the very quiet campsite I breakfasted with the Grandparents, then they deposited me back to the path at Pentewan. A steep hill along a road and I was soon back on the path proper, the first section dipping in and out of several small valleys and skirting pretty sandy bays. I rounded a corner and was surprised to find a small badger rooting around in the long grass alongside the path. I slowly approached, expecting it to take off at any moment, but it didn’t make a move until I was within a couple of metres and wished it a good morning. It looked up with very little concern, then slipped through the fence and bumbled quietly along in the field next to the path. 


Sunny morning walking

Hello little badger!

Not quite bored of pretty little beaches yet


At Black head the cone-shaped hill looked like the perfect spot for the ancient hill fort that the OS map tells me is positioned there, and was faced by somewhat monolithic and interesting memorial to the author and historian A.L. Rowse. I’m not really familiar with his work, but I do like the line on the stone “This was the land of my content”.


AL Rowse memorial


The path turned the corner and I had a full view across the expansive St Austell bay, looking across to my final destination for the day. Quite the expanse of coast to cover first though! The path followed high wooded cliffs for a stretch, then found several more small valleys to keep the legs awake. The path dropped right down to the beaches at Porthpean and Du Porth, clearly favoured locations for outdoor ed activities, as there were several groups of kids enjoying kayaking and splashing around in the bay.


Looking across St Austell bay to Gribbin head and beyond


At the touristy Charlestown I admired the tall ship docked in the Georgian harbour, then escaped the very busy town centre and found a quieter but lovely cafe for lunch. It had a very pleasant terrace out the front, so I was able to spread out and remove my steaming boots without alarming any other customers. I had an excellent lunch including a sizeable piece of cake, and felt much better for the afternoon walking, having failed to take proper lunch stops for the last couple of days. 


Charlestown harbour


On my way out of town I bought the usual pasty for my dinner, then found my way around the harbour and back to the path. The next section followed the edge of the seemingly never-ending Carlyon bay golf course; always fun when a footpath involves golf-ball dodging! I was soon on the industrial outskirts of Par, and was grateful to some locals who pointed me down the unappealing official route, saving me having to double back on myself. The path followed the edge of the big china clay works, then along the railway line and followed the road through Par. I made a brief stop off at a grocer for some cherries (suddenly craving fresh fruit after too many pasties) and was pleased to soon be back to more appealing surroundings at Par beach.


The little harbour at Polkerris


Just a short section left along low cliffs and I was in sight of the lovely little cove at Polkerris, yet another place I had previously visited, with some friends the summer before. As I had made decent time I decided to sit and enjoy a half pint outside the pub, followed by a (very brief!) dip in the cold sea. I then found my way up the hill to the campsite at Penhale farm, harassed on the way by some hungry horseflies, which I sped up to avoid. I was soon enjoying the very quiet campsite, with a nice sheltered pitch just a short way from the facilities. 

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