SWCP Day 10: Goodbye Devon, hello Cornwall!

Other SWCP posts:

Introduction

Day 1: Minehead to Porlock

Day 2: Porlock to Lynton

Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin

Day 4: Combe Martin to Mortehoe

Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop

Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton

Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!

Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly

Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth

Day 33: Maenporth to Portscatho

Day 34: Portscatho to Boswinger

Day 35: Boswinger to Pentewan

Day 36: Pentewan to Polkerris

Days 37-39: Polkerris to Fowey

Day 40: Polruan to Polperro

Day 41: Polperro to Seaton

Day 42: Seaton to Kingsand

Day 43: Kingsand to Plymouth

Day 10

Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Approx. 8.5 miles, 600m ascent
23,339 steps

We woke to a dry bright morning, and I enjoyed the luxury of a mug of tea prepared by Mum, alongside breakfast pastries from the campsite shop. An interesting conversation in the shop; the owner recognised my family name, and it turns out my Aunt, Uncle and cousins frequent the site each year for a big family holiday, quite a coincidence!  As we were to stay another night we left the tent pitched, so a relaxing and easy start to the day. I had use of a small backpack for the next few days, a much easier task than walking with the giant backpack. Mum joined me for the first few miles, and we returned to join the path at Hartland Quay. 

Strong geology

The views were immediately spectacular in the morning sunshine. This section of the coast, although very strenuous walking, was equalled by the stunning cliffs and long views along the coast and complemented by deep valleys filled with irises and foxgloves. Streams flowed along several of the valleys, ending in pretty little waterfalls falling the last few metres to the sea below. Mum and I parted ways after a couple of valleys, and I continued along the rollercoaster path. The guidebook suggests that this section, from Hartland Quay to Bude, should be completed in a day. With over 1,200 metres of ascent in total over 15.5 miles, I wasn't confident in my ability to make it all the way, so I was splitting the section in half and would be finishing in Morwenstow today.

Sunshine!

Rocky beaches

This section of coastline is clearly subject to some heavy erosion, and in places the path was very washed away and re-routed further in land, or clinging extremely closely to the cliff, with just a couple of metres to the sheer drop-off to the sea below. I stopped in a particularly picturesque spot to eat my lunchtime sandwich and admire the views. Further along at Welcome Mouth there was a cluster of tents, presumable a group of people wild-camping, in pretty spot of flat lawn-like grass, next to a stream. I hoped I would be brave enough to try a night or two in the wild before my walk was completed.

Wildflowers and waterfalls

A little further down the path I crossed wooden foot bridge, and spotted the Cornwall sign. I had finally reached the next county on the path, and had successfully walked the entirety of the North Devon coast; a substantial milestone! I was excited for the Cornwall section ahead. Of course the coastline would continue to be stunning, and we had frequently holidayed in the county so I was familiar with several places on the coast, and was looking forward to visiting many other places I had heard about and seen pictures of.

Welcome to Cornwall!

Steep valleys everywhere

Another couple of steep valleys and I made it to in sight of our meeting place for the days-end. Just the small matter of getting down a very steep newly cut piece of ‘path’, covered in a loose surface of stones and gravel. A nerve-wracking slipping and sliding descent followed, and again I was very pleased to have walking poles to rely on, even with the smaller backpack. Back up the valley on the other side, and the rain suddenly put in an appearance as I made it to the Bush Inn in the centre of the village. I let Mum know I had arrived, then enjoyed a cider next to the fire in the 13th century stone bar.

A stunning day

Over the short trip back to the campsite I found it very difficult to keep my eyes open; a day of walking in the sunshine and cider on top are an excellent sedative! A shower in the cold facilities room soon woke me up, and we headed to the Kings Arms in Hartland. A somewhat unpromising looking pub, the food turned out to be really excellent, and I excelled myself in appetite, eating both pizza and a huge plate of nachos with chilli, the second half of the pizza would make a good breakfast the following day.