Other SWCP posts:
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth
Day 19
Porthcothan to Crantock
Approx. 14.5 miles, 450m ascent
38,112 steps
For once I awoke to a dry and bright morning. My feet were a bit of a mess from walking in boots with a slipping insole all of the previous day, so as it looked like a fine day I decided to wear my walking sandals and give my feet a break from the boots. I was glad of my decision to bring sandals that were substantial enough for walking in; I’m not sure I could have done another day in damaged boots! I got away quite promptly from the campsite, now into the routine of getting everything packed away efficiently. I presented myself at the beach shop and cafe for their opening time, and got a coffee and pastries for breakfast.
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| Porthcothan beach |
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| The lighthouse at Trevose Head just about visible in the distance |
A bit of procrastination talking to some locals then I was on my way. The path rose gently above Porthcothan bay, and after a small dip at Porth Mear I was soon on the high cliffs looking down on the spectacular Bedruthan steps, a collection of boulders and stacks scattered along the long golden beach below. There were quite a few people out enjoying the Saturday morning sunshine, and I made use of the NT facilities before escaping the crowds.
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| Bedruthan steps |
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| The other end of the steps |
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| Looking down on Mawgan Porth beach |
Another short high section and the path dropped down onto the massive beach at Mawgan Porth. I took off my sandals and enjoyed walking barefoot in the sand, finally warm enough to do so! I found an excellent village shop with an extensive bakery, and got (another!) pasty for lunch, opting for chicken and chorizo as an exciting diversion from the usual Cornish variety. A couple of small headlands and I was overlooking the huge expanse of Watergate bay. The path dipped down into a carpark that was populated by far too many BMWs, and I found a pleasant grassy spot for my lunchtime picnic, overlooking the many kite-surfers below.
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| The expanse of Watergate bay |
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| Rain showers ahead! |
As I approached the outskirts of Newquay the weather decided to chuck in a couple of short sharp showers; always entertaining to watch everyone scrambling for waterproofs and umbrellas. The path meandered through the urban sprawl of Newquay, deciding to take a couple of pointless detours to headlands, only to pop out 50m further down the same road I had already been on. In the town proper, I found an outdoor shop and got supplies to mend my boots: Some glue, cleaning brush and waterproofing liquid. I made my way to the tourist information office, my original intention being to find accommodation close to central Newquay. After another 10 minutes of busy town though, I decided I couldn’t cope with the chaos after so long in the wild, too many people and things and noise.
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| The spectacular Gannel |
After studying the map I realised there was a promising campsite a couple of miles to the west in Crantock, so decided to carry on. There are a couple of different ways of crossing the Gannel estuary and escaping Newquay. I decided to opt for the little ferry at Fern Pit, so had a dull mile or so walking through suburban streets through Pentire, declining to take yet another diversion out to Towan Head. The sun was really warming up, and I was very pleased to finally see signs for the cafe and ferry. I was quickly vindicated in my route choice though, as the cafe overlooking the ferry point was a delight, with wonderful gardens clinging to the steep hill dropping to the estuary below. The views were stunning, I’ve never seen such incredibly green-blue water.
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| Ferry number 2! |
The ferry was a little wooden boat with an outboard, and the crossing only took a couple of minutes. There was some sort of triathlon race going on, with the swim in the estuary, so there were plenty of people on the other side of the water. I weaved through the crowds and found my way off the beach and quickly got lost in the sand dunes behind, failing to follow the ferryman’s directions. I eventually found my bearings and realised I had overshot the campsite, with a little backtracking along the road required. I finally found the lovely campsite at Treago farm, made all the better for being only £5 per night, and therefore confirming my decision to take a rest day tomorrow.
I pitched in a nice quite spot and was able to get a delicious chilli con carne to takeaway from the campsite shop and cafe, pleased I didn’t need to go out anywhere to find something for dinner, as it had been quite a long day.
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