Pages

Sunday 12 April 2020

SWCP Day 9: The Hartlands

Other SWCP posts:


Day 9

Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Approx. 10.5 miles, 726m ascent
25,296 steps


After several days in the tent, the joy of waking up in a proper bed should not be underestimated. Cocooned in a big quilt with actual pillows instead of slightly smelly clothes stuffed in a bag, it took me a while to persuade myself to get going. However, with breakfast included in my room rate, all I needed to do was reassemble my exploded kit, then present myself in the breakfast room for a big full-english. The hotel offered to put together a packed lunch for me, which was much needed as there wouldn’t be any refreshment opportunities until Hartland Quay. After dining in the company of several fascinating American tourists, I headed up the hill through the village, back to the path. 

The sun was shining and I had a spring in my step. I was meeting up with my Mum in Hartland Quay; she would be joining me as support for a couple of days, and I was very excited for some company plus a couple of days walking without the giant backpack in tow. The first section of the day went through the verdant parklands of the Clovelly estate, skirting the top of the cliff under trees but in sight of the big house. Dotted among the trees was the occasional sculpture and shelter, presumably put in place for the pleasure of the estate family. They chose their picnic spots well, with fantastic views out on to the turquoise and blue sea, ever-changing below the scuttling clouds.

Gorgeous sea
Interesting shelter

The path dipped in and out of a couple of steep wooded valleys, with pretty streams flowing out to sea in amongst wildflowers and birdsong. The weather decided to chuck in a couple of sharp rain showers despite the sun staying out, resulting in a mad scramble to get the waterproof backpack cover out, whilst enjoying being in t-shirt sleeves. The path rose again back to the cliff tops, and followed the rather overgrown edges of fields for a good couple of miles. The walking was not very exciting, but I made quick progress on the level elevation, and the nosey cows made amusing company as I invaded their fields.

Valley bottom
Mouthmill

I stopped short of the radar station at Titchberry to enjoy my lunch in sight of Lundy Island, which had been a constant companion on the horizon since Mortehoe. I would soon be leaving it behind when I turned the corner at Hartland Point. A fellow hiker stopped to chat on his way past, he was doing a couple of weeks of the path, supported by his wife. I would see him again a few more times in the next few days. The changing cast of fellow path-walkers continued to be a highlight; who would I bump into each day?

Radar station or golf balls?
Lundy in the distance

At Hartland Point I was pleased to see a refreshments hut, especially when I discovered they had ice-cream, as the sun was making itself very evident. I stopped for a good break, enjoying the rays and mango sorbet, with plenty of dogs and their walkers for entertainment. At the Point the path makes a clear 90 degree turn to the south, and the geology and feel of the coastline changes suddenly, to a procession of steep valleys and spectacular crumbling fingers of rock jutting out into the Atlantic. I could also now see far ahead down the coast and into Cornwall, which I was rapidly approaching.

Hartland point

Having made very good time, I was able to take it slow as I tackled the first of the many valleys that litter the coast from here to Bude. The path would be a rollercoaster for the next 20 odd miles, climbing to the top of the cliffs then immediately plunging back down to sea level, only to repeat the process every mile or so. This ridiculous terrain plus a lack of campsites was why my Mum would be supporting me for a couple of days, and after the first few valleys, lumbering up steep steps with my backpack assisting gravity in making the work particularly hard, I was pleased I had decided to take an easier option! 

Geology change, and bye to Lundy
Smoothlands
The oddly orientated flower-filled valley at Smoothlands
Looking towards Hartland Quay

Despite the tough route, I enjoyed the couple of miles to Hartland Quay, in the sunshine and positively crowded with other walkers, having barely seen a soul for big sections every day since  leaving Minehead. In sight of the pub at the Quay, I was about to call Mum when she appeared round the corner; perfectly timed. We pitched the tents at the campsite a little way inland at Stoke Barton. Mum already proving her worth as support crew, she had stopped by to enquire about prices etc before meeting me, and had secured us a little private field complete with some undercover seating and just a short distance from the facilities; top marks!

The cliff Top Gear abused
My face!

We went back down to the pub at Hartland quay for dinner, and had fun investigating the film set for that was being assembled, as well as the collection of photos from other films and tv. The Quay was a popular site for location filming, including the Top Gear idiots who pushed a camper van off the top of the cliffs behind the pub. I’d had a really strong day; the walking had felt good and I was feeling like I was getting into the rhythm of it, but it would be fun to have some company for a while. 
Posted by at
Labels: ,

No comments:

Post a Comment

Go on, make a comment :)

Note: only a member of this blog may post a comment.

Subscribe to: Post Comments (Atom)