Other SWCP posts:
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth
Day 24
St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Approx. 13.5 miles, 1,045m ascent
27,444 steps
Today looked like a very tough one on paper, the guidebook grades it is a ‘Severe’ section, with over 1000m of ascent and warnings of rocky scrambles and bogs. I was prepared for it to be a long and taxing day, and we made a contingency plan to meet in Morvah a couple of miles short of Pendeen if I was struggling. We made quite an early start, getting into St Ives before all the tiny roads got busy. I rejoined the path near the Tate gallery, quickly leaving the town behind and pleased to be back out into the wild after a tame day of walking yesterday.
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| Big stepping stones |
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| The first of many orchids |
The morning started overcast but soon cleared up, thankfully there was a decent breeze though so I didn’t get too overheated. The path quickly found its way out onto the wild rugged cliffs, and just as I got out of sight of St Ives I spotted a seal bobbing around in rocky bay, my first of the trip! I do love seals, so I spent a happy few minutes watching it diving and swimming around.
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| Rocky coastline |
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| Plenty of foxgloves |
Saying goodbye to my seal friend, I continued on the path, which as billed was very rocky and interesting terrain, lots of piles of giant boulders to scramble up and over, and big stepping stones across the wet ground. However, with only the small rucksack I was absolutely in love with the fun and interesting walking, and the beautiful exposed landscape. There were plenty of wildflowers lining the banks, including several different kinds of orchids, and a few fellow hikers to say hello to, although not over-crowded.
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| Exciting path |
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| More orchid action |
On one of the many chaotic boulder sections I heard a curious chuffing noise and spotted a group of 4 large black birds with orange beaks. I later learned that they were Choughs, a type of Corvid which are quite rare in the UK and only just starting to re-populate Cornwall in the last few years, after going extinct in England in the 1950s. I saw a few more over the course of the day, so hopefully their population is increasing.
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| The black spot on the rock is a Chough! |
I stopped for lunch on a comfy rock at the stunning Zennor head, tucked in out of the breeze. There were plenty of walkers doing a loop of the headland, so I had an enjoyable break chatting to people and watching the glorious turquoise sea below. I realised I was making very good progress, so let the grandparents know that I would make it all the way to Pendeen, and by a sensible time.
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| Lunch spot with a view |
Back on my feet, the path dipped into a couple of pretty bright green valleys, and supplied a succession of views of very inviting looking sandy coves and crystal clear sea, along with more spectacular rocky headlands and cliffs; truly an epic section of the path. The sea looked very tempting, and I definitely planned to dip my toes in when I got to the final beach of the day, although I suspected that it wouldn’t feel quite as mediterranean as it looked!
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| Gunnard head |
At Bosigran cliff a wide shallow valley plunged down to the waves below, and pinnacles of rocks on either side provided some perfect rock-climbing terrain. There were plenty of people and ropes strung across the towering cliffs, it looked like a lot of fun but I’m not sure I would have enjoyed the big drop below; I’m more of an indoor bouldering type of woman!
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| Rock climbing heaven |
After that last valley the path struck to the top of the high cliffs, providing some easy-going walking for the last couple of miles to the beach at Portheras and little Pendeen cove. Portheras is a stunning beach, we had visited before on holiday the previous year, after a tipoff from some locals, and it was well worth the mile or so walk from the nearest car parking. There is a long wide strip of white sand, and I spotted some seals playing in the gentle surf.
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| Lovely Portheras |
The path climbs back up the cliff and through the bracken to get to the little beach at Pendeen, and I finally removed my boots and dipped my toes in the very clear waters, far too cold for anything more than a paddle though! I met the grandparents and we walked up to their car parked by the lighthouse at Pendeen Watch. An amazing day of walking, definitely my favourite section so far. After some trepidation about how tough it would be, it had actually been very achievable, or perhaps I was finally getting a bit fitter after 3 weeks of walking.
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