SWCP Day 4: Old Haunts

Other SWCP posts:

Introduction

Day 1: Minehead to Porlock

Day 2: Porlock to Lynton
Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin
Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop
Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton
Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!
Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly
Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay
Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow
Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude
Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven
Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel
Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac
Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow
Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan
Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock
Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop
Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 22: St Agnes to Godrevy
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth

Day 33: Maenporth to Portscatho

Day 34: Portscatho to Boswinger

Day 35: Boswinger to Pentewan

Day 36: Pentewan to Polkerris

Days 37-39: Polkerris to Fowey

Day 40: Polruan to Polperro

Day 41: Polperro to Seaton

Day 42: Seaton to Kingsand

Day 43: Kingsand to Plymouth

Day 4
Combe Martin to Mortehoe
Approx 10.5 miles, 950m ascent
29,910 steps

I awoke to another grey morning, and was extremely tempted to just stay put and have a rest day in Combe Martin. I was keen though to get to Mortehoe, to a campsite I knew and was looking forward to. I decided to grit my teeth through the sore shoulders and achy feet, and try and get through the day, after all, there was nothing else for me to do!

There was nowhere for a hot breakfast so I ate some of my cereal bar supplies and got some snacks from the village shop, including a Mars bar, can’t remember the last time I had one of those. with much groaning and creaking I got moving on the path. The morning is a bit of a blur, there were several sections along the sides of roads, but also some good views back along the coast to the Hangman hills. The lush green cliffs reminded me of scenes from Jurassic Park. I did meet some lovely friendly people which helped lift my mood, along with a puppy which seemed quite scared of my giant backpack!

View back to Little Hangman

I stopped at a viewing point with great views back to the bay at Watermouth with many boats moored, then looking on towards Sampson’s bay and Rillage point. There were lots of foxgloves and other wildflowers to enjoy, and I sat and happily ate my Mars bar.

Watermouth bay, Hangman hills in the background

Looking onwards

I was in sight of Ilfracombe in good time and feeling ready for lunch, and then the path decided to play a cruel trick, and climbed and climbed, winding up a big hill just on the outskirts. With my stomach rumbling, there was definitely a lot of swearing as I slogged upward. I finally made it to the top of Beacon hill, and was at least rewarded with a pleasing view down over Ilfracombe, and Lundy Island starting to appear on the horizon. I finally found a passable cafe and had an extremely leisurely and extravagant lunch of hot chicken and bacon baguette, followed by massive chocolate and strawberry crepe with excessive amounts of whipped cream, all washed down with about 3 pints of orange squash, whilst enjoying the sunshine that finally made an appearance.

Ilfracombe, with Lundy Island just visible

Finally getting moving, and having drunk far too much squash, I then had to make use of every public toilet in Ilfracombe. I found the path out of town, which wound back up the cliff past big fancy houses. The sun stayed with me so I found a bush for another toilet stop, and changed into shorts for the first time on the walk. I enjoyed the next couple of miles across the open and gently undulating landscape with inquisitive cows for company. Unfortunately the easy mood and kind walking didn’t last long, as the path dropped rapidly down into the village of Lee, with a formidable climb on the other side. I took a moment to enjoy the bay at Lee; when I was a kid we holidayed a couple of times in a big holiday cottage on the hill, and I had fond memories of the big house and huge garden, and also the pub which sadly now appeared to be closed.

On route to Mortehoe

Annoying (if pretty!) valleys

The final couple of miles to Mortehoe were once again a real slog, with a couple of steep valleys dropping down to the sea and straight back up again. The coastline is stunning though, and I was still enjoying the views and being out in the wild, in between feeling rubbish and knackered! The campsite at North Morte Farm finally came in to view, and after walking all the way through the site to find the reception, I finally pitched the tent in a spot with a view, and for dinner ate a pasty I had bought in Ilfracombe. I was feeling tired and quite emotional, with a massive blister on one foot, very much looking forward to a rest day tomorrow, but pleased to have made it this far. I enjoyed a good sunset and dropped off to the sounds of families enjoying the last weekend of the half-term.

Sunset from North Morte Farm campsite

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