SWCP Day 22: Surf's up

Other SWCP posts:

Introduction

Day 1: Minehead to Porlock

Day 2: Porlock to Lynton

Day 3: Lynton to Combe Martin

Day 4: Combe Martin to Mortehoe

Day 5: Rest day, Morte Point loop

Day 6: Mortehoe to Braunton

Day 7: Braunton to Westward Ho!

Day 8: Westward Ho! to Clovelly

Day 9: Clovelly to Hartland Quay

Day 10: Hartland Quay to Morwenstow

Day 11: Morwenstow to Bude

Days 12-14: Bude to Crackington Haven

Day 15: Crackington Haven to Tintagel

Day 16: Tintagel to Port Isaac

Day 17: Port Isaac to Padstow

Day 18: Padstow to Porthcothan

Day 19: Porthcothan to Crantock

Day 20: Rest day, Holywell bay loop

Day 21: Crantock to St Agnes
Day 23: Godrevy point to St Ives
Day 24: St Ives to Pendeen Watch
Day 25: Pendeen Watch to Sennen Cove
Day 26: Sennen Cove to Lamorna
Day 27: Lamorna to Marazion
Day 28: Marazion to Porthleven
Day 29: Porthleven to Lizard Point
Day 30: Lizard Point to Coverack
Day 31: Rest day in Coverack
Day 32: Coverack to Maenporth

Day 33: Maenporth to Portscatho

Day 34: Portscatho to Boswinger

Day 35: Boswinger to Pentewan

Day 36: Pentewan to Polkerris

Days 37-39: Polkerris to Fowey

Day 40: Polruan to Polperro

Day 41: Polperro to Seaton

Day 42: Seaton to Kingsand

Day 43: Kingsand to Plymouth

Day 22

St Agnes to Godrevy

Approx. 15.6 miles, 830m ascent

36,941 steps

Back to drizzly damp weather once again!  A luxurious start to the day with breakfast served to me by the Grandparents, then straight off the campsite back to the path, just the little backpack in tow. As the campsite was a bit short of St Agnes I first followed the path through the little town, noting the large number of Finisterre jackets and coats out and about, as the brand headquarters is on the outskirts. I was very pleased with my extravagant but lovely and warm jacket that I’d been using in the cooler evenings, from said brand. After getting directions to the somewhat hidden path back out of town from a dog-walker (Finisterre-clad), I was away and heading along the very picturesque section to St Agnes head.

Interesting gate on the Blue Hills

On the path out of St Agnes

Looking out to Bawden rocks from near St Agnes head

The weather was pretty bleak, but as usual I felt full of energy walking in the lower temperatures, probably also helped by the transition back to only the small backpack. The path dropped down to the little beach at Chapel Porth, and despite it being a Tuesday the carpark was well-filled, with lots of people taking advantage of the very good surf breaking in bay. I hear that Finisterre staff can take time off when the surf is up, plus the Surfers Against Sewage headquarters was also close by, so clearly plenty of people making the most of living in beautiful Cornwall. I watched the surfers for a while and enjoyed a hot chocolate and flapjack in the shelter of the cafe, not warm enough to investigate their ‘Hedgehog’ ice cream!

The strange parasitic plant 'dodder' that I saw everywhere near the path

I climbed back up to the top of the cliff and was shortly dropping back down again into the small bay at Porthtowan, just stopping to make use of the public toilet facilities, then back up the hill again. The next section followed the chainlink fence-line of yet another military installation, this time the disused chemical weapons base at Nancekuke common. Unsurprisingly given the horrific  implications of the research and other work that went on there when it was active, the place has a very unsettling vibe, and I made a very rapid pace to get that bit of path out of the way, slightly impeded by the very overgrown hedges and muddy terrain.

Very pleased to get clear the base, and tummy rumbling, I followed the path down into the slightly downtrodden looking town of Portreath, not fancying my chances of a decent lunch. However, I was shortly pleased to find close to the seafront a very lovely cycling shop with adjoining cafe, that served an excellent and indulgent smoked salmon and avocado sandwich. Plenty of coffee along with some cake later, and a tip-off to look out for seals on the way to Godrevy, I got back to it.

Carvannel Down, look at that path!

Looking towards Godrevy head

The path dropped down into the final steep valley of the day at Carvannel Down, the angle of the cliffs giving a spectacular view of the path and cliffs ahead, looking all the way along to Godrevy lighthouse. I wound back up the other side of the valley, and the last 5 or so miles to Godrevy was mostly level. The weather worsened so I stopped to put on my waterproof trousers, then really got motoring for those last few miles, enjoying the views from the cliff-top path, whilst safe and dry in my waterproof cocoon. I kept my eye out for seals but unfortunately there were none to be seen, but I did spot several kestrels hunting in the open landscape.

Godrevy lighthouse, St Ives in the distance

Despite the long mileage I made very good time to meet my Grandad at the carpark in Godrevy, rather catching him on the hop as he was hoping to give the dog a walk before I arrived! We headed back to the campsite near St Agnes, and I was soon fed and watered and well-ensconced in the comforts of the caravan.