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Sunday, 7 June 2020

SWCP Day 31: Becalmed

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Day 31

Rest day in Coverack

(Thursday)

5,316 steps


As forecast, the winds picked up strongly overnight, with gusts of something like 60mph. It was particularly bad as it was blowing from the east and therefore directly onshore at the east-facing Coverack. I was extremely glad of my decision to wait it out for a couple of days in the youth hostel; I’m not sure the tent would have withstood the weather. A rest day was also very welcome as the aches and pains were starting to build up, particularly as I had now walked for 10 days in a row (oops). My feet were very painful, they felt like all the bones were crunched up and almost sprained, very nasty as I needed my feet! I was also generally feeling pretty rubbish; too many days in the hot sun and too many pasties!

I had a very relaxed day, starting with a good lie-in then a decent breakfast in the hostel, watching the waves crashing out of the window. Despite the high winds it was a beautifully clear and sunny day, so I made the most of it and thoroughly cleaned my boots, and also re-glued the insoles once again, leaving them in the sunshine to dry.

Big waves

I took a (gentle, slow!) wander into the village and had a little explore, watching the waves trying to get to the little boats hunkered behind the protection of the harbour wall. I stocked up on dinner supplies at the village shop, and had a jolt back to the real world overhearing the locals complaining about politics. I sat in the sun and enjoyed another ice cream from the cafe next to the harbour, then limped back up the hill to the hostel.

The harbour wall showing its worth

I spent most of the rest of the day with the map and guidebook spread out in the lounge planning my next few days of accommodation, ringing a couple of campsites to check they had space over the weekend. I had mostly been ringing a day or two ahead, mainly for my own peace of mind to know I would have somewhere to stay, but I hadn’t had any problems at all getting on any campsites. Apart from the first week when it had been the school half term holiday, most of the sites had been practically empty, but I expected things to start getting busier as the main school holidays approached.

Tomorrow would be a tricky day with the wind still present, and a couple of ferry crossings that may or may not be possible in the conditions. I wanted to get back on the path, I just hoped my feet would be up to walking!

Raging easterly!

Thursday, 4 June 2020

SWCP Day 30: Pushing through

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Day 30

Lizard Point to Coverack

Approx. 10.4 miles, 699m ascent

24,323 steps


The lighthouse foghorn at 7am gave an indication of the cooler weather outside, which would be very welcome after the steaming weather the day before. I was also feeling very in need of a rest day, after nine straight days of walking. However, the forecast for the following day was for very high winds and rough weather, so I planned to get to Coverack and stay at the youth hostel there, to have a day off and to wait out the weather.

The lighthouse at the Lizard

It took me a little while to get going, definitely feeling tired and drained from the long day before, out in the hot sun. I made it out into the fog finally, and found the path round past the lighthouse. The first section wasn’t too hard going in the cooler weather, and there were some excellent flower-strewn rocky cliffs to keep me going. The path dipped in and out of a couple of small valleys, past the lookout and lifeboat stations, and the spectacular collapsed cave called the Devil’s Frying Pan. 

Clifftop delights
Devil's Frying Pan
Rocky valley

The path then dropped down into the pretty fishing cove at Cadgwith, which I remembered from the Fisherman’s apprentice TV show from a few years ago. I got a good pasty for lunch at the village shop, and as I was leaving the village I can across two of my dorm mates from the Youth hostel. We walked together through the stunted wood valley at Poltesco and down to the beach at Kennack. On the curiously grey sands in slightly grey weather I stopped for my pasty lunch, pleased to take a bit of a break as I was feeling really very tired. I saw one of my other dorm mates, and we spent the rest of the day overlapping each other on the path, but both quite happy to walk mostly alone. 

Cadgwith cove
Poltesco
Kennack sands

I hauled myself up the steep hill back up from the beach, and not too long after the sun came out, and with it again the heat. The afternoon was very difficult work, a combination of very tired feet, far too hot weather and some new and unpleasant chaffing. My boots also started to give me trouble again, and would need another glue job when I reached Coverack. A couple of steep valleys and some grumpy stomping later, I found the small lookout at Black Head, and flopped down on the very welcome bench in the shade for a break. 

The sun starting to show itself

I only had a mile or so left to get to Coverack, and the motivation of a proper day off tomorrow finally got me going again. The last stretch wasn’t so tough going, and I elected to take the easy high path instead of the narrow path down the cliff, which was billed as somewhat tough going and slippery in the guidebook. I was pleased with my choice as the path took me through a lovely shaded sculpture park, although I must have still been feeling grumpy and overheated as I neglected to take any photos.

The very welcome sight of Coverack

I was soon in Coverack and before the youth hostel was open for check-in, so I found an ice-cream at the village cafe and sat and actually enjoyed the sunshine by the picturesque harbour. I also got some supplies for dinner so I wouldn’t need to go back out, and could spend the evening doing not very much at all. I presented myself back at the youth hostel at check-in time, and was pleased to find it was as nice as the Lizard one, again with very friendly staff, and even better views out to sea. There were very few residents, but I did have the company of one of the women who had also stayed in the Lizard hostel. I spread myself out and had a very nice relaxing evening doing very little, and enjoying all the hostel amenities, then early to bed.

This view for £15 a night!

Saturday, 30 May 2020

SWCP Day 29: Hitting the bottom of the compass

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Day 29

Porthleven to Lizard Point

Approx. 13.4 miles, 735m ascent

29,494 steps


A big day ahead, I found a good breakfast at the Hideaway cafe in Porthleven, sitting outside in the morning sun. I got chatting to some friendly locals who were very interested in my giant backpack and my journey, and had some good tips for food stops on the path. After some encouragement from the group the cafe owner took my picture and posted on instagram, I felt a little bit famous, especially when the guy serving at the cafe further down the coast recognised me from the post! An entertaining start to the day, and got me enthusiastic about the walk ahead.

Instagram famous haha

The morning was another gloriously sunny one, and with a decent breeze the heat felt manageable. The path started gently, climbing slowly out of Porthleven then dropping down onto the shingly Loe bar and then back up onto the cliffs behind the long stretch of Porthleven sands. I had some company for the initial stretch, keeping pace with the two women I’d met the previous day with the Nordic walking poles, and we got chatting; they were walking a few days of the path and staying at b&bs on the way. Sadly today would be their last day, but it was nice to have company for a bit.

Saying goodbye to Porthleven harbour: I'll be back!
Heading out of town
Loe bar
Looking back down the expanse of Porthleven sands

The path traced in and out of several pretty coves, dropping up and down to the sand, but not on too demanding a gradient. At Winnianton farm the women went ahead as I made use of the facilities and enjoyed a breather in Church cove, with its little church tucked in beside the sand. The path soon found Poldhu cove, and I found the women again at the cafe and we sat and had some refreshments together. I was hoping for a pasty for lunch as the locals at breakfast had recommended them, but unfortunately the bakery delivery was running late. After waiting for a fair while and enjoying people-watching on the busy beach, I decided I couldn’t wait any longer as I still had a long way to walk. I hoped to get something for lunch at the next village a mile or so away.

Good cliffs
Poldhu cove

I was getting pretty hungry by the time the path dropped me down into Mullion cove, although I was somewhat distracted by the white pony that was swimming around in the little walled harbour, with its rider swimming alongside, a surprising sight! I managed to get a pasty in the little cafe in the village, and said goodbye to the two women who were at their final destination for the day. I took the steep hill up and out of the cove, and found a spot with a view to eat the pasty, propped up against a comfy rock.

Mullion cove, aquatic pony not shown

From there, the path headed up onto some stunning high cliffs, and included some drops into steep rocky valleys. The weather was very warm by this point, and the landscape very exposed with little in the way of shade, so I was starting to really feel very tired and overheated. The rocky craggy terrain was also starting to hurt my feet; lots of pointy rocks sticking up to tread on and trip over. The beauty of Kynance cove was lost on me as I was feeling throughly fed up, and the too busy cafe and precarious path down to the beach did not improve my mood. There were hoards of people on the beach relaxing and enjoying the sun, and I hated them in that moment, wondering why I was making myself walk, and why they were all in the damn way.

Stunning scenery
High cliffs (spot the small people on the top!)
Steep valley, sore feet

I found the steep steps back up from the beach to the carpark, quite surprised by just how many people there were to dodge on a random Tuesday in June. The path seemed to go right through the carpark, with plenty of idiots driving around too fast trying to find spaces and kicking up dust, and when I found the toilet block I offloaded my backpack in a huff, making use of the little shade given by the building.

Lizard point finally in view (a little blurry as my phone was rather sweaty!)

After a little break I made myself carry on, knowing I only had another couple of miles and one small valley left to go. At 5ish I finally made it to Lizard Point, and it was all worth it. It is such an amazing spot, with fantastic views, and for some reason hitting the southernmost point of the UK felt even more special than when I had passed through Land’s End. I made it to the cafe on the point just in time to get a big jacket potato for dinner-with-a-view, and some cake to take away. 

Polpeor cove at Lizard point

I had decided a couple of days previously that instead of camping, I would give the Youth Hostel a go; my first ever hosteling experience! I was a bit worried it would be really busy and rowdy, but of course that was a bit silly, as a hostel in such a remote location doesn’t really attract the partying types. The host was really friendly, and I was able to make use of the laundry facilities to get my long-overdue washing done. I stayed in a dorm room, and all the other guests were fellow (female) hikers, all of us walking the path in different ways, in sections and alone and in groups. For the same price as I paid at the campsite the night before, I had use of the excellent communal facilities, great company, a comfy bed I didn’t need to build myself, and all in an absolutely stunning location. Watching the sunset over the point is something I will remember for a long time.

Worth the effort!

Wednesday, 27 May 2020

SWCP Day 28: Porthleven is Foodie Heaven

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Day 28

Marazion to Porthleven

Approx. 10.8 miles, 580m ascent

28,188 steps


After seven days of caravan luxury with the Grandparents, and only walking with a small backpack, today I would be back on my own and with the big backpack once again. Grandad dropped me back in Marazion bright and early, just as the bakery was opening, and I bought a pasty for lunch as the refreshment options for the day looked a little limited. I waved goodbye to Grandad, and it was back off out into the wild on my own.

The first section of the day took me up the hill out of Marazion along the road, then followed a diversion down to the cliff avoiding a recent landslide. The path edged the low cliffs, with views back to St Michael’s Mount, which this morning was shrouded in a low hazy mist. The weather was extremely warm and humid, with a low layer of cloud trapping the hot still air. It looked like it might be quite a tough day to be back walking with the big backpack. I soon encountered some fellow hikers, a pair of women who were walking with long Nordic walking poles, and they certainly beat me for speed on the flat. We spent the next couple of days leapfrogging each other, and it was nice to have some regular faces on the path again, as I had got out of step with everyone else I had met so far.

St Michael's Mount in the morning haze
Cudden Point

At Perranuthnoe I made use of the village public toilets, always grateful that even the tiny villages in Cornwall still provided public facilities; I always added 50p to the box when there was one. Out of the village the path continued along the top of the low cliffs, out to Cudden Point which provided the last view back to Mount’s Bay, nearly obscured in the haze. Onwards, skirting pretty little rocky coves, and the sun started making an appearance, adding to the heat of the hot sticky morning. Near Kenneggy sand my hunger got the better of me and I stopped on a comfy piece of grass for a short lunch break.


Lunch spot
Lunch spot views

At Sydney Cove a short while later I was pleased to find an open cafe as I was rather overheated. I made good use of their shady terrace overlooking the beach, and enjoyed a mango sorbet and half and hour of surfer-spotting. A brief chat with a local confirmed there was access back to the path at the other end of the stretch of Praa sands, so I walked along the waters’ edge to the other end of the beach, then found the route back up the cliff through the dunes.

Surfers in the sun

The final couple of miles of the day felt like a real slog in the hot sun, with never-ending diversions cutting inland around the edges of fields, to avoid the many cliff falls. Finally Porthleven came in to view, and I was soon enjoying a cream tea and a pint of squash in a cafe in the town. I had very little expectation of what Porthleven would be like, having never even heard of it before I started route-planning, but it turned out to be a rather lovely and friendly town with a proper harbour, and lots of excellent foodie options.

Porthleven harbour

After recuperating for a short while I found my way to the campsite just a few minutes from the town centre. It was a little bit rough around the edges, especially considering the price (£15!), but the showers were perfectly fine and I had a nice level and sheltered pitch, so nothing much to complain about. I headed back in to town and found some excellent pizza for dinner, eaten with a harbour view. I enjoyed the entertainment of surfers out at the harbour wall, and the local ladies rowing crew arriving back from training, all whilst keeping a careful eye on those militant Cornish gulls.

A slightly risky surfing spot!
Very delicious pizza
Decent sunset

Sunday, 24 May 2020

SWCP Day 27: Tarmac trudging

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Day 27

Lamorna to Marazion

Approx. 9.2 miles, 220m ascent

23,621 steps


I agreed with the Grandparents that I would make today a short day, so we could all have a bit of lie-in. With just 9ish miles to do, we got going at about 10ish, heading back to Lamorna to rejoin the path. The day was rather grey and threatening a bit of drizzly rain, but I was happy to have a bit of cooler weather for walking after a few days of feeling a bit overheated. 

Lamorna cove

The first couple of miles of path out of Lamorna clung low to the cliffs, through rocky and boulder-strewn terrain. A few little ups and downs and I was soon out of the wild and into the outskirts of Mousehole. I was quite looking forward to seeing the little town as when I was a child we had read the book ‘The Mousehole cat’ by Antonia Barber, set in the iconic harbour. I do remember being quite frightened of the book, as it features a big scary storm, but it has beautiful illustrations of the town. Unfortunately with the drizzly weather and cars parked all around the harbour it wasn’t quite as picturesque as I was anticipating, and it being a Sunday morning, I couldn’t find an open cafe or coffee place for a refresher. I made use of the public toilets then moved swiftly on.

Mousehole harbour
The harbour again

The path would now be on pavement for the rest of the day, following the edge of Mount’s bay around to Marazion and St Michael’s Mount. First I went through Newlyn, one of the biggest proper fishing ports left in the UK. Unsurprisingly it was quite an industrial landscape, and again I failed to find anywhere to stop for the rapidly approaching lunchtime, despite zigzagging through several back streets.

Plenty of boat life at Newlyn

The weather got a bit wetter, but I was soon on the outskirts of Penzance, now with a lunch stop-off top of my agenda. After a wander through the Sunday quiet, I finally found the lovely Honeypot cafe that was actually open and serving brunch, and settled in to a big cooked breakfast, delicious proper hot chocolate and an espresso to wake me up for the final stretch of slightly dull afternoon walking.

On my way through Penzance I made use of some civilisation to top up my cash and suncream supplies, and bought a pair of hilariously bright hippy trousers to wear whilst doing my laundry, so I could actually get everything washed, and not have to sit around in my underwear! Although it is a little grungy in places I do like Penzance, it has a friendly and alternative feel, and lots of indie shops.

Horses and riders making the most of the vast beach
St Michael's Mount in the gloom
The view from the Mount back to Marazion, in sunnier weather

Past the train station and onto the wide path running along the back of the long expanse of sand running all the way round the bay to St Michael’s Mount. About 3 miles of unexciting walking later and I made it into the village at Marazion, in the shadow of the mount. The tide was out so the causeway was exposed, but as I had explored the island and castle with the boyfriend the previous year, and in much nicer weather, so I didn’t feel the need to linger. I scoped out the village for lunch picnic opportunities for the next day, and met up with my Grandad for my last night of caravan luxury with them; I would be back with the big backpack and tent tomorrow.